Charlie Walker
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Nordkapp

11/8/2010

19 Comments

 
Day 42
Location: Alta, Norway
Miles covered: 3,036
PictureTundra in summer
After two days R&R in Alta I began the final push of my journey's first leg. The road turned inland and climbed sharply away from the stunning Altafjord and its gaspingly cold water. I soon found myself following a steadily growing river across a vast expanse of the snowless summer tundra dotted with reindeer and small houses, each with a parked snowmoblie impatiently awaiting winter.

Picture2am sunrise
The near non-existent traffic consisted solely of caravans and package tour coaches which would creep up behind me, emitting only a soft swishing sound, and often force me off the road with their thick wall of displaced air. As evening came on I dropped down to the coast again and followed it north on delightfully empty roads, deciding to cycle through the night in a fitting climax to my time in Arctic summer. The sun slid below the mountains at 11pm and I continued under a sky still blue while it made its shallow traverse over the northern horizon. I had just passed the hundred mile mark when it began bleeding vivid pinks and purples into the thin clouds at 2am and I contentedly watched it all reflected in the waters along the edge of which I was skirting.

PictureAt the entrance to Nordkapp tunnel
Feeling less than lucid I arrived at the tunnel. Infamous amongst cycle tourists, the Nordkapp tunnel is 7km long and drops 212m below sea level, emerging on the island of Magerøya. I plunged into the dimly lit orifice and, while speeding downwards, counted an echo of six seconds. I bellowed both verses of "Jerusalem" at the top of my voice and grinned while the lengthy echo created a round, albeit a very out-of-tune one. At the bottom I shivered my way over a couple of ice puddles and began the strenuous climb to the other end. After a seemingly endless length of time, and steaming like a racehorse, I crawled into the daylight in a sort of troglodytic trance and had some sandwiches. There were only another 30 miles to Nordkapp (the first of my "four corners") and I was feeling energised, possibly because I had eaten two loaves of bread and a large bunch of bananas in 12 hours. This optimism soon escaped me when signs warned of tortuous ascents and I recalled a cheerful warning I had read in a Lonely Planet guide book: "Given its great distances, hilly terrain and narrow roads, Norway is not suited for cycle touring."

As the road rose, the mist fell and visibility plummeted to about 15 meters. Finally, after 165 miles and 18 hours of continuous riding I crested the last hill with legs throbbing, head pounding, nose running and eyes streaming. I had reached the end of Europe. At latitude 71°10'21" Nordkapp juts out into the Berents Sea roughly 1000 miles from the north pole. The view from the top of its 307m high cliffs is all-encompassing and gives itself easily to daydreaming. However, I only had enough energy to pose for a photo before stumbling a little distance away and throwing up my tent where (I was later told by an amused German) I indulged in some seismic snoring. I rested until the next morning and then turned my bike to face down the hill and set off for Singapore. On the way down I reached a toe-curling, buttock-clenching 50mph at one point and was dive-bombed by a flock of protective Actic tern parents at another.

Picture
Nordkapp: the end of Europe
Picture3000 miles
Having completed my first leg and covered over 3000 miles I would like to take this opportunity to prompt anyone who might be inclined to make a donation to either one of my two excellent charities; Future Hope and the RNLI

Picture
19 Comments
Rosie
11/8/2010 04:47:10 am

Beard's coming on nicely, Charlie, keep it up! x

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Ondra link
11/8/2010 05:21:33 am

Congrats Charlie! The beard grows as the miles do, good, good! Take care on the way down and enjoy!

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Haakon
11/8/2010 05:33:26 pm

If you had quizzed me properly before you set off on your journey I could have told you two things. Firstly, Norwegians being very Eco-friendly (despite their income deriving mostly from oil) do operate a recycle-reward scheme, and you tend to see several people rummaging the bins around small towns looking to make a few bucks, although they are mostly eastern european immigrants, so I'm glad you've already bonded with the ethnic minorities. Secondly, the Mosquitos are vicious (in fact they are of the same breed as the African variant who carries malaria, although their Norse cousins do bot carry the virus anymore). The Samis have developed a resistance to the mozzie's itching saliva, but for us mortal men the only protection is, believe it or not, a product you can only buy in Britain called 'skin-so-soft'. But I guess you're already half way through Siberia by now so this information is useless to you. Best of luck old chap!

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Harry
12/8/2010 09:41:26 am

Charlie, just thought I'd take the chance to say 'well done' for getting so far already. Also, I know that you forgot your birthday on your travels last year, so I thought it wise to remind you that it is actually tomorrow (Friday) so I'll be expecting a call please mon frère xx

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Nicolas link
24/8/2010 12:57:37 am

GOod luck with your epic journey, and take good care of yourself and of your newly acquiored shaker needle for your multi-fuel stove.

BR
-n-

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Olivier-Paul Nirlo link
27/8/2010 10:33:14 am

Hey! Here's Olivier, the French cyclist you met in Alta! I'm very glad to hear you reached Nordkapp so glouriously, this is really how it should be done! Can't wait to read the rest of your adventures, man, it's great, good luck! And remember you are welcome to stay in Paris in 4 years!

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Kurt & Els
28/8/2010 12:38:55 pm

Hello Charlie,
today we were in (sunny) Brugge, looking on the map of Brugge ... and a man talked to us ....
Right, it was Luc, the same man you spoke with on the 4th of July. He told us about your trip and your dream to travel 4 years. Now we are back home (we live in Ghent in Belgium) and just discovered your site! From now on, we will follow your adventures around the world! We wish you good luck!
Kurt and Els

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Hannah
28/8/2010 09:28:29 pm

Hey Charlie,
You are a fantastic writer and I love reading your blogs, keep then coming. Travel safe

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Jack
3/9/2010 01:53:49 am

As ever, a wonderfully entertaining read. It sounds like you have more friends in Eastern/Northern Europe now than David Hasselhoff! Be safe. JT

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26/3/2011 12:19:20 am

The picture that says please give generously it made me think that is there really people who didn't give generously?

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30/3/2011 06:56:02 am

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Tommy
17/11/2011 10:33:23 pm

Was down by the sea in my hometown Alta when i saw Your adress on the rof of the fireplace so i had to take a look. Whis you a happy journey on.

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Else
13/4/2013 04:12:36 am

I also saw your web address in Alta and had to check in.

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9/7/2013 03:07:10 am

Stunning pictures as well as amazing journey you had by travelling through the important destinations. It has been a pleasure reading your blog and it took my minds of through the location that was completely unfamiliar to me. Thanks you very much for this great piece of work.

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1/10/2013 01:11:55 pm

First time here at your blog and wanted to say hi.

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21/1/2014 07:42:57 am

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